When Ursula Heinzelmann isn't on the cheese trail in the Emme valley or researching rare cow breeds and their ancient cheeses in Auvergne, there's a good chance you'll bump into her at Markthalle Neun. ‘Preparations for the Cheese Berlin programme are in full swing,’ she says as she inspects the large Alpine cheese wheels at Alma. 'Cheese shopping in the hall makes for a welcome relaxation programme."

For Heinzelmann, it doesn't always have to be extra special cheese. Childhood in West Berlin featured Harzer and Gouda, which she still loves. But it is the lesser-known specimens that take her on her research trips to remote regions of the world. She researches cheeses that you would look for in vain on the average Berlin cheese board - and brings them back to the city in her fragrant or even slightly odorous luggage.

She shares these souvenirs at her monthly ‘Heinzelcheesetalks’ in Markthalle Neun, where she invites everyone to broaden their lactic horizons. ‘If you want to expand your view of the cheese world even further and get to know cheeses and cheesemakers that would otherwise require long journeys, mark November 3rd in your calendars’, says Heinzelmann with a sparkle in her eyes.

November 3rd means Cheese Berlin, a grand cheese festival that has been taking place at Markthalle Neun since 2012. Under the curation of Ursula Heinzelmann, it has developed into one of the most important events for artisan cheese. Every year, cheese makers, experts and enthusiasts from all over Europe and beyond come to Berlin-Kreuzberg to celebrate the craft of cheese making. It is a forum with an extensive supporting programme, an ode to the craft, a celebration of traditions and the stories behind the cheeses piled up on the wooden tables.

"Cheese has the potential to tell incredible stories. And when I talk about stories, I don't just mean those of people, but of the cheese itself. Why did it develop the way it did? Where does it come from?"

In the midst of this festivity, Ursula Heinzelmann stands as a passionate advocate of artisan cheese culture - which she has also been writing about for a long time, in the same way that many others write about wine. She is not only the curator of the event, but also an author, food historian, sommelier and chef. ‘Cheese, like so many things in life, came to me courtesy of my friend serendipity,’ she smiles. ‘It has the potential to tell incredible stories. And when I talk about stories, I don't just mean those of people, but of the cheese itself Why did it come about like this Where does it come from?

This curious, almost detective-like approach leads Heinzelmann time and again to the most exciting corners of Europe and the world. Searching for the origins, she delves deep into what makes cheese so special: "Every time I explore a new cheese, I think about what connects the landscape, the animals and the people in order to create precisely this expression in the cheese. Originally, cheese is always about survival in a certain place, under certain conditions, with the help of ruminants, in a symbiotic relationship. You just have to listen carefully.

‘When you listen to the cheesemakers and learn about the conditions under which they work, you suddenly understand a lot more about what's on the plate or board in front of you,’ emphasises Heinzelmann.

One example that Heinzelmann is particularly excited about is this year's focus on feta at Cheese Berlin: ‘What I'm really pleased about is that we have real feta PDO matured in wooden barrels at Cheese Berlin this year, which we haven't had before. Most of us don't really listen to it, and they think: ‘That's fresh cheese, you crumble it over salad and gratinate something with it.’ This is totally misjudged, because feta is not a fresh cheese. It comes from Greece, so it speaks Greek. What does it mean for a cheese to ‘speak Greek’? Pastoralists, sheep, goats, because the landscape is not exactly green and lush for the most part. In contrast to cows, which want lush pastures, sheep and goats find something to ruminate on almost everywhere. Optimal land utilisation. The milk is processed into feta: Preservation method. Storage in brine dates back to the days before modern refrigeration methods, and the longer it is stored, the better it is. The best feta is also matured in wooden barrels. So there's a lot hidden in there, and this year we've put a real focus on feta, a true journey made of flavours.’

Cheese Berlin not only brings cheese to Berlin, but also the stories of the people who create it - and thus a piece of their world. Cheese can be much more than just a product that you buy and eat. It is a cultural heritage that is rooted in the landscape and the people who make it. ‘When you listen to the cheesemakers and learn about the conditions under which they work, you suddenly understand a lot more about what's on your plate or board,’ emphasises Heinzelmann.

‘For me, Cheese Berlin is a place of exchange,’ says Heinzelmann. ‘A place where people who are passionate about cheese come together - regardless of whether they make it or enjoy it.’

These stories - of herders in Greece who have been maturing feta in wooden barrels for thousands of years, or of cheesemakersin Auvergne who look after heritage breeds of cows - turn preserved milk into an experience that goes far beyond enjoyment. At Cheese Berlin, producers have the opportunity to tell their stories directly and share them with an audience that appreciates artisanal production.

‘For me, Cheese Berlin is a place of exchange,’ says Heinzelmann. ‘A place where people who are passionate about cheese meet - regardless of whether they make it or enjoy it.’ She sees the true value of the event in these encounters. It's not just about buying or tasting cheese, but about being together, sharing knowledge and traditions, and recognising the importance of artisan cheese as a connection to the landscape and to nature. ‘This is what makes Cheese Berlin a festival that allows us to look beyond the cheese board and understand at least a small part of the world better, with every piece of cheese.’